Down
羽絨 2017 - 2018
On view: Taiwan Biennial, National Taiwan Museum of Fine Arts, Taiwan (17 Oct.-28 Feb.)
- Handmade down jacket, photographs, videos, thermal imageries and sensor readouts; dimensions variable.
- 自製羽絨衣、照片、錄像、熱感影像、傳感器測資
While shopping for winter jackets, I realised that it is impossible for me to tell where exactly the feathers of mass-produced down jackets came from [1]. Therefore, I attempted making my own down jacket in a relatively harmless way: by manually collecting the goose feathers on the grounds in the parks [2], riverbanks, and forests near my house in Breda, the Netherlands.
After two months of collecting [3], cleaning, filling and sewing, the jacket was put to test in the High Arctic (Spitsbergen archipelago) for three weeks to see if I can survive [4]. During this sailing expedition of The Arctic Circle Residency [5], I made 21 landings and glacier hikes between 78°17'N-80°02'N, wearing only this jacket and minimum base layers. A guide booklet “A Step by Step Guide for Making Your Own Down Jacket” was designed based on my experiences to allow everyone to make a down jacket from where they live.
[1] Despite recent regulations, there are debates about the percentage of down production that still involves animal-cruelty.
[2] These parks are common habitats for escaped farm geese, and migrating Canadian geese.
[3] Approximately 3000 feathers collected, 80 grams (50% of what I initially aimed for).
[4] Body condition was monitored with temperature sensors, thermal camera and heart-rate sensors.
[5] 1st-19th October, 2017, right before polar winter.
在選購冬季外套時,我發現很難確認市售羽絨外套的鵝毛來源[1]。因此,我試以相對無害的方式自製羽絨衣:手動撿拾掉在住處(荷蘭布雷達市)附近公園、河堤、森林邊[2]的鵝絨。
經兩個月的蒐集[3]、清理與縫製,我到北極(斯瓦巴群島)試穿外套三週看看能否存活[4]。在北極圈駐村[5](78°17'N-80°02'N)21次登陸、攀登冰川全程,我穿了此外套與少量底層衣。另依經驗設計了「自製你的羽絨外套手冊」,讓大家都可自製羽絨外套。
[1] 縱使現有來源認證,產品中以殘酷方式取得的絨毛有多少,仍具爭議。
[2] 水域常有農場逃出的白鵝、遷徙中的加拿大雁。
[3] 共撿拾約3000根絨毛(80克),為目標量一半。
[4] 由熱感相機、溫度、心率傳感器量測身體狀態。
[5] 2017年10月1至19日,永夜前。
中文訪談:VICE創想計劃
Graphic design & illustration by Yi-Hsien Hung